White Queen, Velvet, Petticoats and Corsets, Oh My!

White Queen – Short update on the page.

Visitors – Guys!  800+ visitors!  And at least half of you are not my Mom!  How cool. 

Velvet – Scary see-through yellowish velvet has been returned.  Samples from two other places have arrived.  The first isn’t even velvet, it is more like a fuzzy denim.  How dare it call itself velvet!  (Or whatever.)  The second is just too dark.  I have two more samples coming in the mail.  I have sent out the portrait and an e-mail with what I am looking for to several suppliers and manufacturers.  So far, nada.  I am beginning to sense that I may need to up my budget.  GAH.

Everything else – Margo has sent me the pattern for the roped/corded petticoat

And can I just stop for a moment and talk about how cool technology has gotten?  Margo was able to draft a pattern for me on her computer, turn the pattern into a PDF and send it to me.  I then e-mailed it to FedExKinko’s where they printed it out on a large-format printer for me.  It cost about $20 to be printed.  Amazing. 

I looked in my closet for remaining linen to use and it was either too loose a weave, or not big enough pieces.  Since I didn’t want a circus inspired roped-petticoat I am waiting till tomorrow to run to Joann Fabrics and purchase some linen.  I also need to pick up some cotton clothesline or hemp cording to use.  The tucks are made for 1/2 inch cording.  From what I have read it is best to wash your cording FIRST, then put it into the petticoat to allow you to wash your petticoat and avoid shrinkage. 

Margo has drafted a bodice pattern as well.  Eleonora’s bodice has a rather high neckline (reminds me a little of the French renaissance look with the slightly curved up necklines) with a sloped front as per Janet Arnold.  As Margo pointed out to me, with the bodice drawn as per the burial garment, I will be barrel shaped.  No way around it.  And since Eleonora looks rather barrel shaped in her portrait, I am just going to go with it.  I don’t want to make changes to the bodice that will change the appearance from that in the portrait. 

In corseting news I have a mock-up muslin done.  And because this project wouldn’t be me if I didn’t make changes AGAIN, I have made changes.  Again.  I was going to attempt a non-corded non-boned bodice to be all historically accurate and all, when I discovered that no matter how I made it that it was going to be difficult to make it stay properly on my shoulders and not show with the slightly off-the-shoulder bodice that Eleonora has.  So I am going with my original ORIGINAL idea, which was to make a boned bodice a la Demode.  And strapless.  In linen fabric, so that will at least be the closest I can get to historical accuracy.  I may also line the outside in red velvet.  Because I also came to the conclusion that I will likely never wear this to MNRF due to the dust and muck, etc.  So if I am unlikely to wear this outside, I can go with whatever layers I want.  The coutil is going to be used for my 18th century corset which needs to be done….uh…. soonish?

My final project has been the camicia.  I decided to use handkerchief (or tissue as per Joann Fabrics) linen for the camicia, and was planning on using this excellent tutorial at Realm of Venus.  I am not going to add the side pieces, and instead am using wider width pieces at the front and back.  Mainly because I went through my bin of chemises waiting to be sewn together and found a linen camicia already cut out, serged, and waiting to be completed.  I am thinking I am going to keep the serging because it is already there, and don’t want to change the dimensions even more.  I did cut two 2.5 inch sections from the bottoms of the front and back pieces in order to have fabric for the flat band neckline that needs to be embroidered as per the portrait.  I am unsure on the embroidery plan.  Before assembly?  After assembly?  Hmm. 

I will have pictures on Wednesday after my adventure out with the Teens tomorrow.  Woot!

5 thoughts on “White Queen, Velvet, Petticoats and Corsets, Oh My!

  1. Margo Anderson says:

    In looking at the portrait, I’m not convinced that the ground fabric is velvet. It looks more like a flat silk ground with the black and gold parts in raised velvet.

    • Laura says:

      As per Moda a Firenze they state it is a kind of velvet, as they have similar examples of the fabric. Someone also told me that in Italian it is called “BRICCATO RICCIO – velvet pile, voided & brocaded with silver gilt and silver loops.” Which is why I have been looking for velvet. If someone can prove that it is silk? Would make my life a WHOLE lot easier. And less expensive. 😉

  2. Margo Anderson says:

    Voided velvet, as I understand it, is a plain ground fabric with the design done in raised velvet. Think of something similar to burnout velvet, but much more fabulous. I think the fabric might be a white silk ground with the gold and black portions raised. The white part just doesn’t look velvet-y to me.

    Here’s an example of what I’m talking about: http://www.coraginsburg.com/green_voided_velvet.html

    “ciselé, a luxurious combination of uncut looped pile and tufted cut pile, often on a voided SATIN surface.”

  3. Kimiko says:

    I just got a pdf file of The Annotated Arnold by RW Trump that has some notes on this outfit. I think you might find it interesting. I’ll send you a copy of the page of interest from his notes.

    One item is that Arnold notes in a different article, “Il Costume Nell’ Eta’ Del Rinascimento” that the “satin gown was not white, but originally pale chartreuse. The bodice trim has been discovered to converge at the waist, rather than run in parallel rows.” The rest of the commentary have to do with discrepancies between the given photos, the pattern and the written text. Let me know what email to send this segment to you, and I will.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s